60 Comments   
thrift store tipsIt's the ultimate thrift store fail: You score a sweet vintage dress from the $1-a-pound pile, only to discover -- five minutes before you're headed to meet your girls at the bar, of course -- that there's hole in the armpit. Your consolation? At least it cost less than the beers you'll be drinking later that night ... in a different dress.

Tears, holes, stains and snags -- dirty words the experienced thrift store shopper knows how to avoid. And then there's the other side of vintage shopping: Am I really getting a deal? Follow these five simple steps and you can rest assured your next thrift store find isn't damaged goods in disguise.


1. Examine All Angles


• Hang the piece so you can see it from a 360-degree view. Stand back and examine all angles for stains, tears, snags, pill balls and other signs of damage or over-wear.


• Rub all fur against a cotton shirt to test if it sheds
• Scratch leather and suede. If it tears, the material will crack and flake off with further wear.

2. Turn It Inside-Out


• Turn the piece inside-out and repeat the 360-degree examination.
• Look for "floaters" in the pockets of coats and jackets. I've found balled-up pieces of tissue that have disintegrated and left gross, sticky remnants.
• Examine the inner lining of all outerwear for damage, including sleeves (pay close attention to the area where the sleeve meets the body -- if it's in bad shape already, your coat won't last very long), pockets and the very bottom lining of a coat, where thread tends to unravel first.

3. Check the Hardware


• Zip zippers to ensure they aren't bent or off-track.
• Button buttons to ensure they are tight and secure.
• Give sequins some serious eyeballing. Vintage sequins were usually hand-sewn in India, and while a piece may look great from afar, a critical eye can catch missing sequin bling and fraying thread. If thread is beginning to fray, chances are the sequins will eventually fall off the piece.
• Test all hooks. Older pieces are more likely to have extra fasteners; pieces were structured to fit better than your average sweater dress, so many dated pieces use fish eyes, snaps, Velcro and other clasps that our 2010 wardrobe doesn't possess.

4. Get Up Close & Personal


• Is the piece a bit dirty? Don't buy it. Chances are, that old grime is there to stay and won't wash out.
• Give the inside a whiff. If you catch any scent that's not just aroma of moth balls, don't buy it. You'll have to dry clean to remove said stench, defeating the purpose of a thrift store bargain.
• Empty all purses. Shake them to remove bits of paper, grime and any "surprises" that may live inside. (Old mints and matches, anyone?)


• With shoes, try to break off the heel. I've come home with amazing cowboy boots only to find that the heel is loose.


• Try it on! Wear leggings and a tight tank so you can easily throw anything on in the aisle without waiting in line for the store's (usually) sole changing room

5. Verify That It's Vintage


• Look for a union card attached to the inside seam. A union tag is proof that the piece was produced and supported by a clothing union, which existed in the U.S. before the overseas boom of clothing production beginning in the 1980s. They're usually square and about 1/2-inch-by-1/2-inch; red, white, and blue; and state the name of the union, like "The Ladies Garment Workers Union" and "Made in U.S.A."
• If you find a union tag, you're definitely scoring a vintage piece, which by definition is at least 20 years old. It's like having a timestamp on your clothing!

MORE VINTAGE COVERAGE FROM OUR SISTER SITES:
• Angelina Jolie wears a $26 Goodwill dress (StyleList)
• But wait! Drew Barrymore scored one for $25! (StyleList)


sammy davis Sammy Davis spends her days doing what any thrift nut loves most: finding beautiful vintage clothing to bring into the closets of the contemporary NYC girl through her company, Sammy Davis Vintage. When not rummaging through secondhand stores across the Northeast, Sammy's planning RoadHug USA, a road trip to discover this country's best food, fashion and music. Got a question about fashion or just want to shout her a holler? Drop her a line here, and she'll hit you back ASAP.